The words "honey" and "punk." The phrase "bubbles in the blood." The wind-bent cornstalk shadow.

Twenty years ago, I wandered Central Europe in January. It was a honeymoon, but the motive was a climb through Disney castles and a clattering on cobblestones. It was an encounter with Janie Litwitz-Tobsch, my Old Country alter ego. It was an insomanic’s delight.

One night, I woke in Vienna and left my love alone in bed. The hotel room was crisp and chro…